Sharing the same peninsula as the UAE and jutting out into the Arabian Sea is Oman. Before reading any further, take a moment to make a list in your head of everything you know about this country and I'm willing to bet it's not an extensive one and probably reads; Arab, Muslim, oil (?), only country I can think of beginning with an 'O'. Don't feel bad, as both your and my ignorance of this seemingly insignificant player in the Middle East can be attributed to the lack of newsworthy events that happen there. Oman isn't an oppressive Arab state in the same vein as Saudi Arabia. Although the country is governed by an hereditary sultan, his council is elected by the people (with over 70% voter-turnout). That council, which contains female ministers, has overseen changes that have established Oman as one of the most developed and stable countries in the region. It seems highly unlikely any uprising will occur here and there is never any overt political rhetoric about neighbouring nations like Israel. However, the Sultanate of Oman has kept strong ties with the US, the UK and Iran, thus proving to be the best placed state to help keep relations from boiling over.
Like the UAE, Oman has made its wealth on the back of the discovery of oil in the 1960s. This influx of money has allowed the country to improve its infrastructure and let its citizens to enjoy a high standard of living. Unlike the UAE, Oman has yet to descend into parody.
I arrived in Muscat, the capital, early. My 6am flight from Dubai was certainly not the most pleasant part of my trip and I'll have to make sure I don't take too many more of them in future. However, an early start proved to be a godsend as arriving in the coastal city at 7.30 meant I could check out the fishing port of Mutrah and watch the fishermen bring in their catch. I was impressed with the efficiency with which the men would unload their boats and cart the fish up to the market area at the top of the beach. There, family members had set up shop and would hawk the extremely fresh seafood to restaurateurs, supermarket-inventory-stockers (or whatever you call the people who acquire things for supermarkets!) and housewives alike. After buying the fish, it would then be taken to another part of the hall, where the fish would be gutted and cut and readied to be taken home or for resale.
Muscat is affectionately known as 'the three cities' as it comprises 3 distinct areas separate from each other. Mutrah is the port town, Old Muscat provides the history and Ruwi is the commercial and business district. Walking around Mutrah it is hard to believe that you are in a city at all, let alone the capital. The sleepy fishing village feel extends beyond the fish market and can be seen along the stretch of road down the coast. With a strict building policy that all building be traditional in design and with few high-rise buildings, Muscat couldn't be further away in its outlook from Dubai if it tried. Even the
souq (market) in the heart of Mutrah with its narrow alleyways and maze of shops seemed tranquil.
In Old Muscat, which has weathered Portuguese occupancy, the forts, walls and gates still stand high on hills safeguarding the city and the country from invasion by sea. Any new building here seems to follow the same design which results in the roofs of homes and offices resembling turrets. Set against the backdrop of craggy rocks and hills, old and new blend together with a pleasing affect on the eye. Perhaps the most endearing aspect of the old town, however, can be found near the government buildings and the sultan's palace. Walking around, I didn't encounter another soul and went right up to the gate without spying a soldier or anyone else seemingly guarding the premises. The paranoid part of my brain prevented me from testing the theory that the country was so open and safe that anyone could take a stroll in the palace gardens. I suspiciously eyed a rosebush and came to the conclusion that a member of the secret police must have been hiding behind it.
Further along the coastal road, near the Al-Bustan Palace Hotel (consistently said to be the best hotel in the Middle East, much to the chagrin of hoteliers in Dubai), you can see the 'Sohar,' a boat made famous in 1980 when it set sail from Oman to China, taking 8 months to complete. What made this journey so special was that it was a recreation of a voyage made 1300 years ago and used a boat created in the same fashion, implementing only the bark of palm trees and rope. Not one single nail was used in its construction.
After a day of sightseeing and leisurely strolling along the seaside, I got in touch with Sener, my Couchsurfing host, who had offered my a place to stay for a couple of nights while I was in town. Sener was from Turkey, a country close to my own heart, and had moved to Muscat the year before for his job. Much like its Arab neighbour to the west, Oman has had an in-pouring of foreign workers from all over the world, though most notably from the Subcontinent and Africa. The high salaries offered have enticed people looking to make money and the relative relaxed nature of the country compared to the UAE have brought Europeans too. Hanging out with Sener and his friends one night for a game of poker (I opted not to take everyone's money in case they thought me impolite), it was a regular meeting of the UN. I was pleased to find that Omanis mixed with ex-pats though, as it was something I had found lacking in Dubai.
It quickly became apparent, however, that being a quiet city with hardly any hustle or bustle had left me with a feeling that the city was a little 'lifeless.' I had a relaxing break and learnt a few more things about the Sultanate, but I just didn't feel like I had found out what made people tick. Sure, I was only there for a few days and another visit to another part of the country in the future is in store, but Muscat felt as pretty as a picture and as multi-dimensional as one too. I'm glad I went and I recommend it as part of an extended visit to the Gulf region, but I think it may be some time before tourists flock there en masse as the government hopes.
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